Fashionphilos

An Ethereal Beauty

2011-12-14T19:23:00.000-08:00

Dree Hemingway ♥

Photos:Models.com

A Reflection

2011-12-03T12:42:00.000-08:00

So much has changed. Within the Fashion Industry, as well as in my life personally. I have spent much of the year writing, and re-writing posts for my blog only to end up deleting the drafts later on, losing the ability to hold on to a passing thought and allow it to grow into a theory or revelation the way I was once so skilled at doing. When exactly did I become so detached? Where have I fallen off? I realized that my focus has changed. I have changed. This blog that used to exhibit so much of my discovery of Fashion had begun to mold itself into the Interpreter that I had unknowingly become. It had begun to reflect the themes that inspire me while I was still attempting to hold on to the voice that had started this blog. That voice had changed, grown, and molded itself into who I am now. I realize that I am still very much inspired by the story that Fashion can tell. I am still drawn to the purity of Fashion Design, and still motivated to learn, and work within the Fashion Industry. Moving forward, I hope to re-establish the connection to my blog. I hope to have a deeper and more innate understanding of the complexity of the Design process, and I hope to connect with my audience as we watch the growth and evolution of the Fashion Industry together.

Photo: www.Fashiongonerogue.com

All Things Beautiful.

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A spirit.

Raquel Zimmerman Vogue Paris April 2006.

'I am different people...

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at different times'

I only know myself in each moment.

Have you ever looked back at yourself in your life? There's such a disconnect between who you once were and who you've become...Your interests, your beliefs, thoughts, actions...It is such an odd feeling to become reacquainted with who you once were. I don't always believe that it was me.

Photos:Fashiongonerogue.com

Alla Kostromicheva and Alymeline Valada for i-D Spring 2011.

An Education

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I've always longed for adventures in my life. Those experiences that you dream about where you create unbreakable bonds, narrowly avoid trouble, and have the most amazing conversations into the early hours of the morning...All of these dreams became my reality this past year. I've never laughed so much, I've never learned so much, I've never loved and hurt as much as I have in 2010, and through disappointments and lessons, pain and forgiveness, I am here now. I've spent much of the year questioning life. My life. My goals, my intentions, my fears, my passions, my love. What I've learned is that I won't have the answers. What I've learned is that in some way or another, were all just trying to make sense of this life that we were given...in our own way...In our own time. This blog is still a framework for my ideas and thoughts as I stumble through my life. Except my passion for life is intrinsically tied into Fashion. The difference now being that I no longer use this blog as a way to hide from life . Disappointments and heartbreak are inevitable, I've learned to meet life head on. As we enter into a New Year the fear that I've harbored about what is to come has turned into curiosity. I no longer plan where I will go in life, rather I wonder where it will take me. I want to see myself at different stages in my life and see how I've changed and who I've grown in to. 2010 was a year of discovery for me. I'm curious as to what 2011 will be for me. I hope you'll continue exploring with me.

I find beauty...

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In strength. Inner strength, and in a world where to this day,women are still unappreciated and undervalued by the world over, I've come to love and appreciate strong women. Lea T, to me is representative of a strong and beautiful woman. A transcendent woman. I say this because Lea T is a transgendered woman and her courage to share her struggle and her story with many is not only inspiring, but also necessary. The truth is, we live in a world of fear. We always have, and as history has taught us numerous times in the past-fear propagates hate. Currently in the United States a discussion has arisen about the bullying of gay children and the subsequent suicides that have resulted from the bullying. Yet our policies do not support the gay community and their inherent rights whatsoever. 45 out of the 50 states in the United States will not issue marriage licenses to gay couples, and the current fight to repeal the 'Don't Ask Don't Tell' law pertaining to openly gay soldiers in the military is only being met by bans all around. Gay bullying and intolerance is all too common, overlooked, and tolerated by our leaders, our peers, and even ourselves. The issue is often treated as an afterthought, or is disregarded as not being that big of a deal. It is, and the loneliness and fear that drove several children and young adults to take their own lives for fear of exposure or blatant hate shown to them by society shows how big of a deal it is, and how out of touch with reality many of us are. This is why I admire Lea T so much. In a world where she could have easily chosen to live in fear, she chose courage. She chose happiness. She chose to be the person she knew she wanted to be, despite the amount of hatred and loneliness she would undoubtedly encounter. Lea T is a woman I aspire to be like. She has broken boundaries and redefined the definition of beauty. As her story gains exposure I hope that her strength will inspire those in the gay community to live in love-not fear, and be who they were destined to be, because in a world where we are constantly progressing and moving forward at a dizzying pace, one thing we've seemingly left behind is our humanity, and in leaving members of the gay, lesbian, bisexual & transgender community behind we have isolated them. We have failed them.

Reminisce.

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There is a certain parallel...

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seen in the Givenchy design. One of romance, and haunting. And what we have seen in the Givenchy design is a certain dialogue that has taken place between the romantic, and the haunting. As Riccardo Tisci has matured as a Designer, his use of the two have evolved in their intensity. Tisci's use of haunting was once limited to a subtly pale faced model paired with gorgeous ethereal clothing, what has evolved is a darkness that has begun to show through the Givenchy design no matter what the influence. Such darkness was first evident in his Spring 2010 Couture Collection where the influence was the 1970's, yet the color and hyper intensity of the 70's was re-imagined to feature a sparse color palette of predominately black and white. A 70's maxi dress was reconfigured in black with tiered ruffles falling to the floor, an intricate pattern cut into the fabric, at first glance reminiscent of a pentagram. Even when the Collection was designed in such a way so as to embody the romance of the 70's, there was something quite Gothic, recalling the clothing of the Puritanical era and its modesty- the long flowing layers falling to the floor, and the high necked collars- the same era in which the Salem Witch Trials took place. Flash forward to Tisci's Spring 2011 Collection where more evident than ever were the Gothic undertones, this time exhibiting an undeniable power. Tisci's use of romance was decidedly less obvious, yet still present in the long sheer skirts that fell over a zippered miniskirt, or underneath boxy tuxedo vests. This parallel between the two is one that has been long running in Riccardo Tisci's designs, yet this can also be said of man. What exists inside each of us is seemingly played out in the designs of Givenchy-the duality of man. The dark and the light, yet Riccardo Tisci designs in such a way where the two run along each other, and seemingly intersect at the same time.

Givenchy Spring 2010 Couture
Givenchy Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Photos:Style.com

Passion...

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Is truth.

When you love something, you should not be blinded by it. By its imperfections, its struggle, and its reality.

It is the image...

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that defines a moment, an era, a lifetime.

Life is but incomplete without the image.

Corinne Day. Image maker. Artist.

1965-2010

The Simplicity...

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Of being. And of dreams. And of life.

All Things Beautiful

Photos:Vogue Paris

There is something so mystical...

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about the Haider Ackermann Design. The raw, sort of scientific nature of his clothes, complemented perfectly by the sinuous cuts of fabric that are draped, folded, and tucked, create a magic that belongs only to Haider Ackermann. His clothing has the ability to traverse not only lifetimes and eras, but worlds, lending an enigmatic power in the message that his design commands. It's the subtlety of a piece of fabric cut so that it resembles a doily, peeking out from underneath a jacket, or the way the collar of a leather vest extends so that it wraps around the neck of a model, almost resembling a DNA strand. The geometric (commonly triangular, or spherical) shapes of fabric that fall beautifully on the body all while retaining a pragmatism that appeals to more than one type of customer allow the strength to emanate from within the woman. A reverse peplum on the rear of a jacket, a leather corset with swirling zippers, or the beauty of a high-necked, asymetrical collar completing a motorcyle jacket possess a quality that is far more interesting than stylish, allowing you to look at Fashion Design with a new vision. Easily seductive, yet in a different manner than the instantaneous nature that has overtaken the world, and much of Fashion Design today, Haider Ackermann's design is truly his own. This enigmatic quality that belongs to his clothing, can only be attributed to belonging to him as well. A powerful Designer.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2010

Photos:Style.com

Update.

2010-06-28T20:37:00.000-07:00

I apologize for the slow down in posts over the last few months. Had an absolutely grueling semester in school, and immediately after finals I traveled to Los Angeles, Arizona, and now Texas (where I am staying for the summer with my family). I cannot begin to explain how much I miss dedicating time to my blog, yet while I haven't been able to spend as much free time writing, I have never stopped thinking, contemplating, and wondering about fashion and I can feel myself growing. I hope now that I will be able to share this with each of you. I am excited for what is to come and hope that my blog will soon reflect that excitement. Please bear with me, and as always, thank you :)

What is the relationship...

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between the Designer and the House they inherit?

The constant evolutionary nature of Fashion leads to numerous doors opening, as well as closing. The recent appointments of Sarah Burton to Alexander McQueen, Giles Deacon to Emanuel Ungaro, and the rumored appointment of Gareth Pugh to Thierry Mugler always lead to questions relating to a certain understanding between those whose design and inspiration have given birth to a House, and the inheritor. Will there be a discord between the two, or a poetic understanding? Will the Collections that follow become mere representations of what has been seen before, or an absolute departure from the work of the previous Designer? In truth, a vision is often singular, yet there is a bond that binds us all together. A bond created, and defined by the design itself. What does changing design create? A deeper understanding, forged between the creator, and their craft, opening the door for a new understanding for those who work to interpret design.

There is an inevitable longing for the familiarity of design that comes with an understanding and appreciation of a certain Designer's work, but often, this contributes to a certain complacency, and when confronted with the new, a change is forged. How does this affect the inheriting Designer? Much in the same way it affects Interpreters, by forcing the Designer to look inside themselves and re-evaluate their understanding of Design, allowing them to find their own truth, and their own strength within Design, enabling them to grow in such a way that what begins as their sole voice in Design, inevitably grows to become a new narrative, chronicling a new era in Design.

Photo:Leaders of Men

'The most beautiful thing we can experience...

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is the mysterious.'

Close your eyes. Open your heart.

Photo:Paolo Roversi

'I believe in you...

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I believe in the next generation. I believe in youth.'-Edward Enninful.

Our time is now.

A Truth.

2010-05-13T20:32:00.001-07:00

There is something to be said about the treatment of models in the Fashion Industry. Essentially, models are an integral part of the Industry, yet the stories of discrimination, abuse, and forced starvation provide insight, and shed light into the inhumanity that many face in the Fashion Industry. An Industry that prides itself on creative expression, freedom of thought, individuality, and of change. A creative expression that allows young models to be taken advantage of without question, and exploited without the blink of an eye. A creative expression that dare not be questioned, and when it is, allegiances are remembered, equality forgotten, and accusations rampant. What of the young girls forced into uncomfortable situations for the sake of 'art?' Well what of it? Surprisingly, an Industry for women, by women, without worry of chauvinism or smaller rates than a man is not one of equality. Beauty is not recognized, but defined. There is a push for one look, one size, one color...and with this push, so much beauty and inspiration is lost. There is no accountability for one's actions, but there is blame. Constant blame. When does this blame give way to responsibility, and does it ever? Will it ever? The deaths of Daul Kim and Ambrose Olsen, show how people cease to be human beings in the Fashion Industry, but commodities. And in a way, the death of Alexander McQueen does as well. Almost immediately after his death, concern over his life, and what troubled him was lost in a sea of gossip. The allegations of sexual misconduct against Terry Richardson and the group-think mentality that served to defend him without question, the number of suicides of those who worked within the Industry within the past months, and the deaths of models who have died of starvation in the past, are more than enough for a wake-up call for many. Yet with tragedy, there is always potential for change. Change should not be left to those working within the industry alone, but to you, and I. We are all equal. And as human beings, it is our job to fight for the humanity of others who have no voice to do it for themselves.

A Narrative.

2010-04-17T13:05:00.001-07:00

A Fashion show often consists of a singular story. That of the Designer and his or her inspiration. But what happens when you expand a story to allow it to become a narrative? A new understanding has evolved, and with this understanding, a creative freedom begins to express itself in your work. In the Etro Fall 2010 Collection, Veronica Etro exhibited a sort of collaboration between her ideas, and the narrative of many. What resulted was a powerful collection documenting the harsh realities of domination and oppression, and the struggle for unity among classes that has taken place throughout Chinese History. Traditional Chinese clothing united Veronica Etro's use of print and patterns beautifully with traditional Qipao blouses and dresses in swirling prints reminiscent of Chinese Art. A Mao Suit (worn by Magdalena Frackowiak) told the story of the struggle of the Chinese Government to retain their Chinese Heritage in the face of increasing Western Influence. Where was the working class in all of this? In a beautiful, but unglamorous slouchy turtleneck in dark grey, or the unstructured shearling sweater. Not forgetting Veronica Etro, her vision was astoundingly clear in a silk, split shouldered top with a soft paisley print, or a belted robe with flowing tapered trousers. The Collection varied between looks of structured, masculine tailoring, and soft feminine looks, with androgynous looks that served the purpose of showcasing the Western Influence that the Chinese so ardently fought against, and embraced. The Collection became consistently darker ending with looks like a funnel neck cape trimmed in fox tails that were dyed red at the tip and a gorgeous charcoal sleeveless kimono dress with a black and white patterned slip showing underneath. Ending on a luxurious note, Veronica Etro's Fall 2010 Collection shows that true understanding and evolution come when you stop trying to tell your story, and begin to tell the stories of others.

Etro Fall 2010
Photos:Style.com

'When there is Passion...

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it is unparalleled.'

Live courageously, dance freely, set the world on fire.

'There is always a rhythm...

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that determines a season.'

And as Fashion has entered a new decade, interestingly enough the preoccupation with futurism has diminished and what has Designers moving forward, is the idea of looking back. Dolce & Gabbana echoed this sentiment in their Fall 2010 Collection, calling on their heritage-both artistically and personally, to help deliver a collection of poignancy. The masculine tailoring of a perfectly cut double-breasted blazer with a nipped waist started the collection, and variations of it followed. It was signature Dolce & Gabbana, as well as the signature femininity of a sheer black dress with a lace bodysuit underneath. The balance of these two themes worked beautifully throughout the collection, and as the collection progressed, touches of romanticism were added in the small catholic pendants worn individually as earrings, as a jangle of necklaces, and decorating small handbags. The romanticism extended to include ladylike cardigans and sweaters in black with rosettes along the neckline, or a bustier dress, as well as dresses that were variations of the 1940s Swing Dress. The difference here? They were distinctly sexier, with a corseted leopard print top, or a sheer polka-dotted number. They were also distinctly Italian, and allowed the collection to have this nostalgic feel that transported the viewer to the Italian Countryside. The collection was an homage of sorts, honoring the workers of the Dolce & Gabbana atelier who often go unrecognized, the craft itself, and ultimately came to be a celebration. A celebration of culture, a celebration of beauty, and a celebration of honesty.

Dolce and Gabbana Fall 2010
Photos:Style.com

Evolution

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The Girl from Atlantis
Photos:Fashiongonerogue

Human Nature

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We seek to explore in our art what binds us by morality in society.

Photo:Kai Z Feng

The Last Collection

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There has always been a parallel running through the Alexander McQueen design. The dark and sinister balanced by the poetic and romantic, confrontation balanced by exploration, and within all of this, his own truth, his own vision. His final collection was a culmination of all of these themes, and though we are left with questions that will never be answered, there was a profound sense of peace, truth, and realization. His work transcended time, boundaries, and collective thoughts as to what Fashion is. There was no concern with changing trends, or changing silhouettes, but just truth. His truths, our truths, and his search for what is true. His last collection is the biggest indication of this. The demonic and angelic, what serves to haunt and crucify us, and what serves to free us. The Mohawk headpieces, intricately detailed digitalized printed tops with religious iconography, or the jeweled neckpieces, and heeled booties that evolved from his Spring 2010 Collection, gave way to dresses that were a hybridization of the dramatic, and serene. Extreme draping and folds of a belted, bell sleeved robe evocative of the Byzantine Empire, led the way for angelic dresses. A cream white floorlength gown with a raised collar, that was printed softly with an image of an angel mirrored perfectly onto the other side, with wings extending to the back of the dress, all of it was unmistakably McQueen, yet there was such a sadness in the collection. There was a sense of absolution in the Collection, yet had Lee McQueen stayed with us, would this have been it? What else would he have given the world creatively, and personally?

A Fallacy

2010-03-22T20:15:00.000-07:00

Beauty and Vulgarity.

The line drawing fallacy. 'The fallacy of insisting that a line must be drawn at some precise point when in fact, it is not necessary that such a precise line be drawn.'

One in the same?

All good things...

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must come to a beginning.

Spring!

Photos: Camilla Akrans via TheFashionSpot

Fashionphilos..

2010-03-19T00:01:00.001-07:00

is 1 year old!

What an interesting journey this blog has taken. In many ways, this blog was years in the making, because before I had Fashionphilos, I would post my Fashion-related thoughts on my Myspace bulletins...to no avail. As I began to spend more time on the Internet, looking at Collections, and learning more about the Industry in general, I wanted to share what moved and inspired me with others...but had no idea where to start. Was I going to start a personal style blog? Eh...I'm too lazy to get dressed up and pose for pictures daily. Was I going to start a Fashion A-to-Z blog, and help girls with little or no knowledge of Fashion in learning more about Fashion? Cheesy...and that just...didn't feel right. I thought about giving myself a year to think it over, come up with the concept, the name etc. but...as I was celebrating my Birthday with my friend Cameron, I told him about my idea of starting a blog, and my hesitancy, and lack of ideas with what to do. He says 'do it. You have a voice, and it's valid.' So thank you Cameron. I am forever indebted to you, and grateful for your friendship. And again, thank you to all of you out there who support this blog. I could not have done this alone, would not be here had I been alone, and with your support, I know now that I am not alone.

A Connection to Truth...

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leads to the discovery of it. We discover this truth and develop a connection to it. The constant struggle and push to evolve creatively almost hides this sensitivity, yet by re-visiting, whether knowingly or unknowingly, we re-discover...if only for a moment.

What exactly...

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do StreetPunks, the Masai, and Futurism have in common? Freedom. Freedom from the restrictions, the freedom of belief, and in that Freedom, they were united in Missoni's Fall 2010 Collection. The collection was one of subtle references in the quilted skirt with numerous prints juxtaposed, and jutting in different directions, or the fur snood which when compared to the traditional clothing of Masai children, is meant to be an evolution of their neck jewelry. Oversized shorts held together by a multi-colored braid, added to the mystique of the collection, as well as the oversized safety pins holding a knitted, knee-length skirt together. This was meant to tie in the Punk reference, yet gave the collection a freedom itself. The organic quality of the materials chosen, silhouettes, and draping of the capes, gave the collection an overall tangibility, and was one free from pretense, as well as the strongest elements of the collection. There were zip away Turtlenecks, free from the remainder of the outfit, one shouldered capes, A multi-colored floorlength Macrame dress, weaved into flowers of different colors and sizes, and an ombre skirt in shades of creme and turquoise. All of this was beautifully textured, and in a smorgasbord of prints that were reminiscent of so many different cultures, eras, and time. As the collection evolved, Futurism began to play itself out in the accessories. A cuff, or choker strategically placed over the fabrics, in black but with a stripe or two in turquoise, red, or lime green, as well as the deep garnet red, or deep plum lip that appears to be black, until seen up close. How exactly do these themes, and ideas interact with eachother? The nature of the three is one of a fiercely independent spirit. Futurism lends itself to numerous interpretations, a concept that is free to dreams, desires, contemplations. With this, there is such a freedom to it. The fight for Anarchy is a fight for truth, and in this truth they are seeking, or may have found, there is freedom. The freedom from conformity, and from society. The Masai are a fiercely brave people, who in their fight against British Colonialism, never lost their own truth. Truth, is freedom.

Missoni Fall 2010 Collection
Photos:Style.com

The Dichotomy...

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seen in Miuccia Prada's Fall 2010 Womenswear Collection was one of beauty, and vulgarity, a sort of classic modernity, and futurism. When exactly do we leave what is considered beautiful, and enter what is vulgar, and can the two exist as one in the same? Such questions abounded while watching the Prada show. Proper full-skirted A-Line dresses, with thick socks that came to the knee were seen in the Collection, but the surprise came in the free-moving breasts underneath that added a touch of eroticism. And when the breasts weren't seen beneath the dress, Miuccia was sure to highlight them in another way with tufts of ruffled fabric along the bust of a plain black tank, or on a dress with a print reminiscent of Art Deco, a modern scratchy brown and black plaid all over it. This, and the Beehive hair, belted cable knit sweaters, and the modesty of the silhouette called to mind the propriety of society in the 1950s (and early 60s) yet at once spoke against it with the refined, yet flagrant accentuation of the female body, almost to the point of objectification. This is where the genius of Miuccia Prada as a Designer is shown in how she is able to unite themes that are such polar opposites into an unknown cohesion. And while the collection was a look back at earlier times, and earlier work of the house, what catapulted it forward was the interesting mixture of patterns, or an unexpected knit collar seen on a long, double-breasted borella coat. Also, the rich, almost liquid like patent leathers seen in the form of a black skirt that was worn with a camel colored belted sweater, or in an A-line coat that stopped at the waist. Such subtle distinctions spoke volumes as to what is quickly becoming the new way to view futurism. Not as futurism per se, but as what we have perceived, what we have conceived, and what we now see. Fabrics, and textures integrated in beautifully devious ways. We must look back in order to look forward, and Miuccia Prada did exactly that.

Prada Fall 2010 Collection
Photos:Style.com
Video:Prada.com

When is Beauty Vulgarity?

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When is art objectification?
Photos: Self Service Fall 2005. Source:TheFashionSpot

There is a certain parallel....

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that exists in the world of Fashion. The beauty that we explore seemingly comes from the torment we are escaping. With sensuality there is fragility. With romance there is haunting. With corruption there is captivation. The search for truth is essentially an escape from it.
Photos:AnOtherMag.com

Redux.

2010-02-23T12:53:00.000-08:00

There is something so romantic about the way the world once was. Looking back on friendships shared, memories created, the intimacy and tangibility of it all seems lost in a world of texting, emails, Blackberry's and iPhones. While the ease of technology has opened boundaries to friendships that might never have had the chance to come to a beginning, something in that is lost. We now hold everyone at a distance from ourselves, and the truth that was once so present is hidden somewhere. It's time to return to this truth, and Marc Jacobs did exactly that for his Fall 2010 Collection. Simple Cardigans paired with a long calf-length skirt (both in shades of gray) a beautiful belted, fur-trimmed coat with flecks of gilded, metallic gold, or gorgeous wide-legged trousers, with a matching waistcoat, and jacket. The collection was ripe with 1930s silhouettes, and references that extended past the clothes (the soundtrack included variations of 1939's Somewhere Over the Rainbow). And rather than fall flat, or read as boring or dowdy, touches of modernity were added in the easily tousled models' hair, a sequined cardigan followed by a body con sequined dress, and a gorgeous clear (but tinted) fur trimmed raincoat. Expertly designed, the collection was a beautiful mixture of luxurious clothes with a worn-in quality that projected a sense of realness to the audience. The beauty of the collection was not just due to its timing, but to the maturity of it all. There was such an ease and restraint seen in the collection, yet still complete with the quirkiness and surprise that Marc Jacobs brings to his Design. Another element of beauty? Each look was independent of the one that came before. A new era for Marc Jacobs? Perhaps. Either way, it was a beautiful start to a new decade in Fashion.

Marc Jacobs Fall 2010

Photos:Style.com

'We die...

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We die rich with lovers and tribes. Tastes we've swallowed, bodies we've entered and swum up like rivers...Fears we've hidden in...'

I wish I could say that these words gave me solace.
Alexander McQueen has come to be the biggest source of inspiration for me. His designs were awe-inspiring, captivating, beautiful, and wrought with such creativity and emotion that they drew such a visceral response from me, and many others. I almost can't comprehend how lost and empty his death has left me feeling. Through his Design I have contemplated concepts, cultures, institutions, oppression of the mind and body, chauvinism, and beauty. Through his design I have dreamed. Through his design I have felt, I have learned, and I have grown. No words will ever rightly encompass how much he unknowingly touched my life. I am only left with tears, with hurt, and with wishes. The wish to have known him, walked with him, worked alongside him.

My thoughts and prayers are with his family, friends, and those who have worked closely with him.
I love you Alexander McQueen. May you rest in peace.

Photos:From his Fall 2000 Collection

All Things Beautiful

2010-02-03T19:00:00.000-08:00

I.
Nudity

'With a more natural relationship to nudity, we might also be freed up to find each other a lot more fascinating. There's an equality to being naked; the fewer clothes and accessories a person wears the less you judge them, and the more you notice their truest traits, like their eyes or their charisma, their great hands or their one of a kind hair or, most importantly, their personality and character...'-Tom Ford

All Things Beautiful

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Recently, I have started organizing all 7000+ Runway Collections, Editorials, Streetstyle Candids, and other images I have saved as inspiration on my computer. Coming across so much beautiful photography that I forgot I have, I felt inspired and wanted to highlight it on my blog. 'All Things Beautiful' will be a sort of series that will run throughout the blog to break the monotony in posts. The name derives from here and I hope to highlight beauty in whatever form, or canvas it is shown. The first will come later this afternoon (or evening) and will focus on the beauty of the human body as a canvas.

'As one, as all. As all, as one.'

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Fashion moves as one.
Photos: TheFashionisto

2010-01-25T19:10:00.001-08:00

The dizzying collection for Rei Kawakubo's Comme Des Garcons Fall 2010 Menswear line was one of purposeful discord. From the beginning she showed jackets with peculiar shaped padding under the breast, shorts worn over trousers that were cut to allow room for socks in bright pink and royal blue to show through, or were cuffed by hand. A three piece suit sans tie was given the non-traditional treatment with life vests taking the place of the traditional button down. Button down shirts were given hoods, and utilitarian touches were abundant in the mix of fastened shorts, vests, and the interesting hybrid of a man's dress shoe/hiking boot. Classic Menswear elements came in the form of a double breasted suit jacket in black, printed navy, or gray. She offered clothing to satisfy more than one customer, those who favor Avant-Garde design can find solace in voluminous shorts, or an asymmetrical vest, and those who are looking for a great wardrobe essential had a number of offerings to choose from. But what exactly does the collection suggest?

The three quarter length furs worn underneath suit and over suit jackets, snorkel hats that evolved into a ushanka, the fit of the no wale corduroy suits (pinched in waist, baggy arms) or the seemingly wet models' hair suggested her collection was one suited for the rugged wilderness.

Comme Des Garcons Menswear Fall 2010
Photos: Men.Style.com

'We Must...

2010-01-21T12:22:00.000-08:00

try not to make materials speak our language. We must go with them to the point where others will understand their language.'-Constantin Brancusi

Photos: Alinka Echeverria

Morbid Curiosity.

2010-01-18T17:20:00.000-08:00

A collection abundant in print could not mask the sinister, morbid beauty in Alexander McQueen's Menswear Collection for Fall 2010. Much like his earlier collections for his Womenswear line, McQueen's Menswear line is dark and menacing, and abundant in Victorian Era influences. A look consisting of an updated version of the popular Victorian Era Frock Coat was covered in a braided print, reminiscent of Medieval Era art (and the Gothic architecture of that period) completed with a matching balaclava, trousers, and bag. The prints did not stop there. There were digitalized prints blurred and distorted...At first glance a black coat looked to be covered in soft but deconstructed brushstrokes, but look closer and the print is of the human skeleton. The collection varied between suits and long three quarter length coats, double breasted with a nipped waist and rounded shoulders, a soft gray trench coat with an interlocking braided print, as well as the beautiful minimalistic coats that bore no print at all in beautiful leathers or a simple wool. The morbid curiosity of Alexander McQueen's design has proven to be groundbreaking, both in his women's collections, and now Menswear. McQueen is re-writing what is considered acceptable in Menswear, and breaking boundaries collection at a time. Enfant Terrible? I think not. Darkly misunderstood? I think so.

Alexander McQueen Menswear Fall 2010
Photos: Men.Style.com

Freedom and Oppression.

2010-01-12T17:55:00.000-08:00

The Freedom of Oppression.
The caged faces, bare peeks of skin contained by body jewelry, or a bandeau top that gave way to the emergence of hope; a bird in flight printed on a motorcycle jacket, a crown of thorns, the ease in draping. What began as oppression could not mask the emergence of freedom.

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2010 Collection
Photos:Style.com

A New Beginning...

2010-01-03T15:49:00.000-08:00

A New Year. Happy New Year everyone! I can't begin to tell you how much joy this blog has given me. 2009 was a very challenging year for me personally. I struggled through a lot of my own personal demons that I never knew existed and although they are still present at times, I am working through them to become stronger for myself and others. When I felt depressed, hopeless, or lost I would channel all my frustrations into my blog and write. Readers of this blog who stop by to share a thought have (unknowingly) pushed me out of my complacency and have allowed me to grow immensely, and become much more knowledgeable and I thank each and every one of you for that.

Looking forward, I only hope for the best for each of you. I hope that you meet life honestly and courageously, inspire and help others, and achieve all of your dreams. Thank you for sharing 2009 with me and I am excited to traverse the blog-o-sphere with you in 2010 :)

The Prejudice of the Mind

2009-12-29T12:40:00.000-08:00

'To see itself is a creative operation...'

'Everything we see in our daily life is more or less distorted by acquired habits, and this is perhaps more evident in an age like ours with the flood of ready-made images which are to the eye what prejudices are to the mind. The effort to see things without distortion takes something very much like courage...' -Henri Matisse.

What's beautiful is repulsive. Our ability to see beauty in its purest form is tainted by our inability to properly see everything for its worth.

Muse.

2009-12-28T10:37:00.000-08:00

A guiding spirit, a source of inspiration, a poet.

Abbey Lee for Muse Magazine.

Photos:?

Une Révolution

2009-12-23T21:18:00.001-08:00

Balmain.

The success of Balmain has led to subsequent backlash from many as to the ability of Christophe Decarnin as a Designer, yet there is beauty in the Balmain design, and the Spring 2010 collection evidences this. Decarnin's Spring 2010 Collection was a departure from earlier collections that led to 'Balmainia,' yet the silhouette remained largely unchanged. Slinky, sexy dresses, booties, jackets and jeans were still evident, however what has changed is the maturity. For Spring 2010, Decarnin went military. Tattered t-shirts paired with an epauletted blazer, or a black chain mail dress with (of course) a peaked shoulder. The genius of Decarnin lies in his ability to dictate the direction in which women will take when dressing themselves.

Is his design wrought with complex thought? No. But what results is easily beautiful, and his Spring 2010 collection is no exception. The intricate detail seen in a tattered olive green long sleeved top with a loose netted, glittered overlay that hung past the waist, or the wear of a pair of jeans that had just the right amount of sheen, Balmain's success is seemingly from the fact that with the recession and the loss of buying power, Designers either scaled back and stuck to a pragmatic design in order to protect their business, or maintained an imaginative approach in designing and designed fastastical, unwearable clothes. Decarnin did neither, but instead tread water in the middle ground. Offering clothes that were neither boring, nor only comprehensible in an editorial, Decarnin gave his audience excitement, and with that excitement came craze. His Spring 2010 collection is only going to further that craze, but the beauty of the collection will convince many that in his case, he is worth the hype.

Balmain Spring 2010 Collection
Photos:Style.com

2009-12-22T16:18:00.000-08:00

~~'Luxury is Refusal.'~~

Luxury is ease.

The Radical.

2009-12-14T21:13:00.000-08:00

Vivienne Westwood.

Underneath the cacophony of colors, patterns and statements in the Vivienne Westwood design is a serenity, similar to the craziness of the Marc Jacobs design. Her political activism often provides the framework for her designs, yet it never masks the beauty of her draping or the classic elements of her collections, whether they are Victorian era dresses, or a flannel dress in the form of a sari. Much like her Spring 2010 collection, her Spring 2009 collection was a call for climate change-yet with a model lineup abundant with women of color, prints of gold, dhoti pants, and the mixture of traditional tribal clothing paired with western tops, her Spring 2009 collection felt much like a celebration of culture, as well as a call of awareness. Within the least industrialized, developing nations, the effects of global warming will be devastating. As it stands, by the year 2020, 75 to 250 million people in Africa will suffer water shortages, yet Africa has contributed less than 3% of global emissions since 1990, whereas the United States and other industrialized nations are largely responsible for global warming. Within an industry that celebrates such creativity and beauty, it is often easy to forget the suffering of others, yet where would Fashion be without cultural influences from the Japanese Avant-Garde, or the Peruvian, African, Indian, etc? The nations most at risk due to global warming, are those that Fashion has borrowed the most heavily from. Vivienne Westwood's acknowledgement of the devastation global warming is to cause due to our own hands is both beautiful and saddening. Beautiful because it is necessary, saddening because it will be largely ignored. In truth, our action is necessary, what will come of our inaction sadly we already know.

Vivienne Westwood Spring 2009 Collection
Photos:Style.com

And yet...

2009-12-12T16:20:00.000-08:00

there is a certain beauty in suffering. It inspires us to become better at the destruction of others, is an intuitive look inside ourselves, and is responsible for the art of yesterday and today.

'I don't think of all the misery...

2009-12-12T10:48:00.000-08:00

but of the beauty that still remains.'-Anne Frank

Hope.

Baptême en Diable

2009-12-07T17:28:00.000-08:00

Photo:Vogue Paris

How Integral...

2009-12-07T16:16:00.000-08:00

is minimalism in relation to the more Progressive Fashion? More often than not, when viewing the collections of Yohji Yamamoto, Akris, and even Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent, the minimalist form of fashion is almost always equated with a certain kind of progressive fashion. Why is that? Why is the drive toward a newer, fresher, more interesting silhouette of a stark canvas? There is a certain beauty in wardrobe basics, because they are the essential foundation of a wardrobe, yet far too often they are easily forgotten. Minimalist, progressive fashion is a redux of sorts. We have moved away from simplicity in embracing the dramatic, yet pushing forward calls for a new Fashion. We are returning to the simplicity of being in Fashion, yet with a new twist. Geometric shapes are prevailing in a number of ways. The beautiful curvilinear shape of a dress with a nipped waist, the new peplum with a stricter, more austere shape to it, the juxtaposition of a triangle, or rectangular shape onto the sleeve of a jacket, none of it jarring. Designers are visualizing the woman of now, yet with a different mindset. In pushing forward, they are pushing us to move forward as well. What better way than to take a wardrobe essential and strip it of what it once was, only to rebuild it anew?

Akris Spring 2010

Photos:Style.com

'To evolve...

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is to continue to breathe creatively...'-Maison Martin Margiela.
Photos:Solve Sundsbo via TFS

'Have the courage...

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to follow the talent to the dark places where it leads.'

At times, our biggest battles are those within ourselves.

Photo:Marcus Bleasdale

'I could not stay another day...

2009-11-22T21:19:00.000-08:00

to laugh, to love, to work, or play. Tasks left undone must stay that way. I found that place at the close of day...'

Deepest condolences to the family and friends of Daul Kim. While her body has left us, her spirit will remain.

Progressive.

2009-11-21T18:59:00.000-08:00

Fashion consists of cycles. We see constant re-interpretations of themes, and wardrobe classics. Alberta Feretti's fusion of the Grecian Goddess with the 1920's Flapper, Ralph Lauren's constant re-interpretation of classic American sportswear...Each of these are always imaginative and beautiful, but when looking toward futurism, Designers seem to falter. Thierry Mugler, and Christian Dior and his New Look dress, were both futuristic with their integration of new shapes, fabrics, and the redefining of what was considered fashionable. As of late, futurism has turned cliche. Nicholas Ghesquire, Alexander McQueen, and Hussein Chalayan are but a few Designers to successfully understand futurism (whether intentionally or naturally) and they shatter the stereotypical view of it. The subtle, progressive designs of Threeasfour do so as well. The sinous cuts of the fabric, sheer interspersed with the solid, solid interspersed with the mesh, and their take on wardrobe classics. A black tuxedo jacket with swirling overlay that fell from the shoulders, and a kimono with an armored sleeve were some of the standout pieces. A natural progression of what we know now is what inevitably leads to futurism. The boxy, harsh silhouette that is so often seen always feels contrived. What will last, and what will have consumers driving to the stores are clothes they understand.

Threeasfour Spring 2010

Photos:Style.com

It's those subtle nuances...

2009-11-17T22:01:00.001-08:00

that define a Designer's growth, not a dramatic change from season to season. An evolution...one where the Designer seemingly finds their path and develops an understanding of the material and the language it represents, as well as the relationship between the two. Subtle variations of a silhouette, or a fine tuning of a particular issue in a previous collection. A willingness to learn from their mistakes and push themselves further in hopes of growth. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli of Valentino fit this idea perfectly. Those 'prickly little things' from their Fall 2009 couture collection have given way to a romance that is slowly making its way back into Fashion. A sheer jumper with cascading ruffles adorning it, or a sheer blouse with petal like folds paired with a gorgeous short sleeved bolero made of a mixture of leather and chiffon...everything was softer, and more fluid than last season's couture collection. After Valentino's departure from his house, the brand struggled for a bit, but Chiuri and Piccioli are helping it to find its stride. Their Spring 2010 collection was a bit of a turning point for the brand. A new Valentino is emerging. Equally beautiful, but darker, more mysterious. A beautifully poetic, and moving collection.

Valentino Spring 2010
Photos:Style.com

Istanbul

2009-11-14T15:52:00.000-08:00

Photos:WMagazine.com

An Interesting Shift...

2009-11-12T19:44:00.000-08:00

has occurred somewhere in Karl Lagerfeld's design.In examining earlier designs of his for Chanel there was a period of restraint. The Chanel of the 80s and most of the 90s was the kitsch, theme oriented Chanel we know of today, but his designs of the late 1990s exhibited a beautiful study of minimalism, and his Haute Couture Spring 1999 collection is a perfect example of this. The ease of each piece in its fabric choice and simplicity in design, juxtaposed beautifully with the more voluminous gowns. Absent was the mark of his current hand seen in his designs of today. Present? A breakthrough that is rarely seen in Chanel. Achingly beautiful collection.

Chanel Haute Couture Spring 1999
Photos:TFS

Karl Lagerfeld Almost Escapes Me.

2009-11-10T17:28:00.000-08:00

Here is a man that will never fit into any niche that has ever been assigned to him. He's so transcendent in so many ways and brings that to his collections-particularly Chanel. The beauty of the Chanel design is that it is so limited. Coco Chanel designed during a time in which luxury was still luxury. Attainable to those who were of the old rich, or nouveau riche only. Within this, the Chanel woman was easily distinguishable. That tweed suit, rich leather gloves, handbag, stockings, a low pump, oh and of course pearls. Karl Lagerfeld has single handedly transformed the Chanel woman into every woman. There is a bit of Chanel in all of us. You can not fit his Chanel woman into any category and furthermore, each collection is a dictionary of references. The Venice Cafe Society Resort 2010 collection, 'Paris Moscou' of Prefall 2009, and the Americana inspired collection of Spring 2008. Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel collections evoke art and it's history, modern history, he references literature, culture, a romance that is largely forgotten in our world today and his Chanel Spring 2010 collection was a fine example of this. It was a fun, innocent hoedown. Sweet, 'but not saccharine,' all the recurring elements seen in the Chanel design were there, and the collection was fun, understated, and progressive. A red tweed suit had a bit of a leg of mutton sleeve, a sheer checked piece with folds, ruffles, a puffed shoulder and high neck covered a black and white tweed dress, and a military inspired jacket in a light denim blue was paired with a matching long A-line skirt. Outside of the Chanel themed pieces there was a gorgeous one shouldered gown with a sheer bottom, a chic black shift dress, and when Karl went floral he opted for muted tones of red, white, and blue. The collection was kitsch and never serious, but who's to say it has to be? It's only fashion after all.

The Kaiser

2009-11-09T18:42:00.000-08:00

There can only be one. There is only one. Karl Lagerfeld.

Fashion is...

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my lifeline, the blood that runs through my veins. It's what moves me, what drives me. My greatest source of inspiration.

The Saint Laurent woman...

2009-11-03T17:54:00.000-08:00

is slowly changing. Stefano Pilati's Spring 2009 collection was a bit of a turning point in that the austere, powerful woman that has dominated the Yves Saint Laurent catwalk has begun to relent...well...almost. Pilati's Spring 2010 collection was a bit conflicting with the newer, younger femininity showing through, paired with the dark, austere themes that have been seen in his collections. This confliction is understood. With any change, there is always a bit of what has proceeded integrated into the new. It is an evolution, and Stefano Pilati was most successful when he worked minimalism with his new femininity. The floorlength white shirtdress or a fluid shift, as well as a black crinkled dress with beautifully voluminous ruffles stood out from other pieces in his collection. Seemingly, as an entire collection it never felt whole. With editing, and a reversal of a few looks in his line up, the collection would have been that much more magical. What felt uneccessary was the use of the strawberry print in certain pieces, as well as the pastel colored dresses that dotted the collection, only because directly after Pilati strayed into his darker, more structural pieces. Neutral colors would have worked beautifully in their place, adding cohesion to the collection, and allowing it to flow easily.With a bit more fine tuning and focus, this new Yves Saint Laurent woman will prove to be very successful.

Yves Saint Laurent Spring 2010
Photos:Style.com

Power for Power

2009-11-02T12:21:00.000-08:00

'Were all fascinated with corruption...

2009-10-29T17:36:00.000-07:00

The more glamourous, the better.'-Rick Owens

Interesting how definitive this quote is of Fashion, and the Industry itself. Beautiful.

The Complexity of the Alexander McQueen design...

2009-10-19T18:13:00.000-07:00

lies in all the unexpected cultural, intellectual, and abstruse concept that is seen in his design. Where other designers stop at the known, Alexander McQueen continues to push the boundaries. From an evolutionary standpoint, an interesting shift has taken place in his designs. From the sadistic, eerie designs of the late 90s and earlier in the decade, to the poetic and breathtakingly beautiful designs of today, Alexander McQueen has grown profoundly as a Designer and furthermore, artist. The various techniques that once existed in his clothing are still there-the couture like craftmanship applied to his ready-to-wear, as well as the Victorian Era touches in the full skirts and Leg of Mutton sleeves, yet what has changed is the medium in which he expresses ideas through his clothing. Before, the controversy lay in his confrontational approach to fashion. The women wrapped and bound in plastic in his Spring 1994 collection, or the "Highland Rape" Fashion show of 1995 led to claims of misogynism. McQueen has come from controversy to commentary. His collections now are often reflections or explorations of some sort. The girl meeting the Indian Maharaja of Fall 2008, the dictum in the careless and reckless destruction of our planet in his Spring 2008 Collection, and lastly the society that has come full circle in his most recent Spring 2010 collection. What has emerged is a new Designer. A new creator.

Dress:Alexander McQueen
Photo:WMagazine.com

The Incomparable...

2009-10-19T16:50:00.000-07:00

Awe-inspiring, moving, poignant, iconoclast, anarchist.

Alexander McQueen

I'm a bit of an Anarchist...

2009-10-09T19:39:00.000-07:00

I have issues with authority. I prefer chaos, corruption, and disorder to conformity any day.

The Pagan Right

2009-10-09T19:05:00.000-07:00

Photos:V Magazine

A Study of Basics.

2009-10-08T18:45:00.000-07:00

What attracts me to Yohji Yamamoto's design is the instant sense of poetry, and harmony that his clothes bring. Even before reviewing or looking closely at his clothing, you can see this in his runway scans. His clothes almost never stray from an all black color palette, and included in that is the subtle drama incorporated into each piece. A small jacket juxtaposed onto a dress, a coat with a lapel on one side, and two on the other...Or a long line of ruffles adorning a jacket on one side. His mastery in angular cuts of the sleeve, long sweeping skirts, and the beautifully minimal, streamlined Peacoat of Fall 2009, are all a testament to his genius as a designer; as well as being undeniably timeless, covetable pieces. For Spring 2010, Yohji Yamamoto took a minimalist turn. Easy long sleeved tops with a peaked shoulder, paired with short paneled skirts, and a beautiful double breasted off the shoulder coat. A collection of wardbrobe basics and essentials delivered with a fresh twist, and very strong construction. Beautiful white shirt dresses (some that fell to the floor) an interesting hybrid of a corseted top with puffed shoulders. Some of the most beautiful elements of his collection came with the addition of beautiful motorcycle jackets-both long sleeve and short. His collection also consisted of torn and tattered pieces that adorned floor length long sleeve sweaters, and soon grew to be full on holes in the arms of blazers, or on the legs of jeans. After delivering such a lovely and strong collection, the real suprise came when Mr. Yamamoto filed Bankruptcy a few days after showing his collection. If the threat of Mr. Yamamoto losing his business has the same effect on his artwork as it did Christian Lacroix, then Fall 2010 is something for all of us to be looking forward to.

'I only see...

2009-10-05T21:27:00.000-07:00

the faults, flaws, the imperfections. That attracts me.'

Yohji Yamamoto

A Common Misconception

2009-10-03T22:14:00.000-07:00

about Futurism is the belief that it is an ideal for a far off world that we do not know of today. It can be yes, but Nicholas Ghesquire for Balenciaga provides a futurism that is an extension of society today. The way he interprets this in his clothing is easily seen in how recognizable every element of his clothing is-yet re-worked with interesting fabrics and curious elements,whether it's panels of fabric that provide a streamlined futuristic look or extreme volume and austerity that provide a wondrous effect and have us thinking of what Fashion will be in generations to come. The skinny jeans,booties, jodhpurs of Fall 2007, florals of Spring 2008, draping of Fall 2009, are all items of clothing that are not unheard of, but in the Ghesquire way they are shadows of their formers selves-and I wouldn't have it any other way. For his Spring 2010 collection, Ghesquire rid us of the luxe and returned to a harder aesthetic. There was the most interesting hyrid sandal boot seen yet (some a continuation of the floral gladiator boot seen in the Spring 2008 collection) a gorgeous skinny pant with pockets that extended mid thigh, boxy linear vests with what looks to be a digitalized print, a paneled tank with various strips of fabric-and some sheerness-that soon took the form of long sleeve shift dresses with the panels of bright color stretching horizontally across the chest and down the arms that had the effect of graffiti splashed upon concrete. What this led to was beautiful tribal war paint slashed across the pants and then back to the futuristic strictly structural, geometric paneled tanks that were with beautiful drapey fabrics and paired with gorgeous tribal printed skirts. It was a collection of ideals via translation and done beautifully with restraint.

Balenciaga Spring 2010 Collection
Photos:Style.com

'With every breath...

2009-09-27T15:30:00.000-07:00

you have the power to give life, to have life, to be still and to have an opinion, to change another and to create...and to believe."-Boudicca

Breakthrough.

2009-09-27T14:11:00.000-07:00

In my blog, my aim is to challenge and inspire readers. I created this blog in hopes of developing a relationship with my audience, one where dialogue is open and welcomed. I hope to constantly re-define the idea of what is considered beautiful through the designers I choose to feature and their designs. I do not believe in the politics of Fashion and have avoided writing about them on my blog as much as possible. But lately, I can't help but feel angry. What is beauty? If you ask anyone the answer is varying and very hard to define-but one thing that is agreeable is the fact that true beauty comes from within. But when looking through magazines, runway collections, and editorials I see a lack of diversity, and a lack of beauty. I have been taught to look at a person for who they are, not their skin color, so it's discouraging to be so enchanted with an industry that supposedly supports diversity yet completely shuns the idea of diversity out of fear. If Yves Saint Laurent heard the excuses used for not hiring models of color he would be rolling in his grave. When did the industry become this way? How hypocritical is it to sell the idea of dreams, yet deny so many at the same time? How small-minded is it to assume that the only dreamers you are selling to are white? It's interesting that designers have flagship stores in Bangkok, Sri Lanka, places where the minority are the majority but this minority is damn near invisible where they should be visible, and represented with pride.

In all honesty, I have tried to avoid this subject and turn a blind eye, but that is doing a disservice to myself, the models who are fighting for representation and everyone else of color on the outside looking in. I can not ignore racism, I will not ignore racism or any form of discrimination or hate-against anyone. I believe in what is right and will fight for it. To my readers I challenge you to do the same, and more importantly- I challenge you to believe that there are no limitations for what you are able to do, and always hope. Beauty is indefinable.

Model:Eugenia Mandzhieva

Sessilee...

2009-09-25T20:04:00.000-07:00

is love.

The Beauty of...

2009-09-22T15:31:00.000-07:00

the Calvin Klein minimalism is that Francisco Costa knows the uselessness of overabundance. His clothing focuses on the simplicity in chicness-structure of form combined with the fluidity of his pieces and the lushness of beautiful fabric against the skin. For his Spring 2010 collection, Francisco Costa added another element to his collection-the beauty of worn in clothes. The softness of a crinkled white cardigan paired over a translucent tank dress added a beautifully constructed element of ease. In keeping with necessity rather than superfluity, Francisco Costa offered a collection of basics. Simple bubble dresses, crinkled streamlined blazers and later on crinkled shift dresses with a sheerness that allowed you to see through to the skin. The translucency and lightness of this beautiful collection was not the only theme present. There was a study of proportions in the dichotomy seen between symmetry and asymmetry-short shift dresses with long panels attached that fell to the ankle, gorgeous tank dresses with one sleeve-as well as interesting takes on wardrobe basics- a white short sleeved shirt dress that fell in an A-line above the knee, a slouchy blazer that evolved into a tulip shaped skirt. The collection ended with easy, voluminous dresses that carried the trademark sheerness seen throughout this collection. Beautiful, sensual, moving collection.

Calvin Klein Spring 2010
Photos:Style.com

What happens in a Post Apocalyptic world?

2009-09-17T10:19:00.000-07:00

What distinguishes the man today from the man that lived 10 or 15,000 years ago? Technology. The sophistication in which we live now is only due to the advancement of technology being responsible for the ease in which we live. What happens to the advancement of man once our resources are taken from us? We revert back to the primitive nature in which we have evolved from. An answer addressed in the Rodarte Spring 2010 collection. For this collection, the Rodarte woman is one surviving in a tarnished future. She is of the post apocalypse. Living in a world where the basic necessities are scarce. She has to scrounge for clothing, and food and protect herself from attackers, and marauders...this is where the protective element of the clothing comes in. The clothing that is built up projecting a sense of armor, the tattoos on her arms. The clothing came pieced together, draped, layered, and torn. Everything was thrown together in the way that a post apocalyptic woman would. The interesting 'fashionable' elements came in the weaving of so many of these fabrics onto one another as well as the lushness seen in some of them (on closer inspection). There were also gilded belts, grunged out plaid that was twisted and wrapped around the model's chest and back, distorted prints, bleached, dyed... and fabrics that barely hung on by a thread. Some pieces were seemingly juxtaposed onto others, clothing was cut into tatters that hung around the model's ankles. Is this what is to come? Will society come full circle?

Photos:Style.com

Flights of Fancy

2009-09-12T19:23:00.000-07:00

Beautiful
Photos:Interview Magazine

What is the state of Fashion?

2009-09-10T19:14:00.000-07:00

In a time where the economy is crumbling worldwide, the fear of fashion not being able to prevail has been on the minds of many-and for some has become a complete reality. Earlier I asked the question 'when does art lose its esteem and become strictly business?' It is evident to me that in this time, the artistic vision seems to be lost in the advancement of a name. Lindsay Lohan, the new 'Artistic Advisor' of Emanuel Ungaro. Why? I don't know that I'll ever understand what she is able to contribute to Fashion Design. Frankly, she cant. It seems to me that Mounir Moufarrige was asking the incorrect questions while deciding to appoint Lindsay. Rather than deciding that her name was necessary in boosting the name of their brand, he should have taken into consideration her knowledge of Fashion Design, her understanding of the craft and materials. How is she more qualified than lesser known designers? What about the design student who dreams for an opportunity like this? Has the foundation of Fashion been lost? The passion, committment, belief, knowledge, craftmanship, creators and interpreters that keep this industry alive...what does this appointment say to all of the dreamers and believers who can't rely on a name to hand them opportunities? In a time like this it's essential to continue to inspire, motivate, and encourage those who live for fashion. Fashion can not survive without a dream. Fashion will not survive without a dream.

Photo: 'Peering through the darkness.'

"It's not about...

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selling a skirt for $499 and a jacket for $755, it's about selling a dream."

Beautiful.

Photo:Lanvin.com

(The)Zeitgeist

2009-09-05T19:57:00.000-07:00

The spirit of the time; the spirit characteristic of an age or generation-Alber Elbaz for Lanvin.
Photo:Vogue Paris

The Reflection of Ideals

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Boudicca-To challenge the pleat.
Brian Kirby's and Zowie Broach's work for Boudicca focuses more on the antithesis of Fashion. Designers with a non-conformist attitude, their work is a direct reflection of their views of society..."The modern paranois of life, the beauty and the vanity of modern life, the anger of another, the lies that we are told, and the real truths we forget." It's interesting to see how the work of Designers who are so unconsciously anti-fashion translates to clothes that are so beautiful and fashionable. There is a timelessness in their designs, and very evident in this collection. The androgyny in the tuxedo jackets, noticeable leather jacket with pointed shoulders- that have just began to pop up all over the runways these past seasons, Balmainia anyone? Vest, trousers, booties, blazers, and not to be forgotten the recent resurgance of knee high, and over the knee boots that were done at Boudicca 3 years ago. In a world where there is a constant influx of new design, innovative design, groundbreaking and historical collections, it's very difficult to have designs that stand the test of time. The subtlety and wearability in Boudicca's designs do.
Boudicca Fall 2006 Collection

Photos:Style.com

I like the idea...

2009-08-31T21:00:00.000-07:00

of women being objectified. There's something so intriguing about perversity, and a perverse sexuality. People should explore that side of themselves more often.

Photos:Vmagazine.com "Dogging"

"Find your own prophets...

2009-08-26T17:18:00.001-07:00

turn nightmares into dreams and confront the darkness-it becomes illuminated with victory."-Boudicca.

Photos:Evgen Bavcar. "A Close up View" "Blind Mans Bluff" "Broken Image"

To Emerge From Darkness

2009-08-26T15:17:00.000-07:00

In a sense that's what the Gareth Pugh design has done in a number of ways. From the confusing, harsh, misunderstood designs in the past to the darker sensibility shining through in his clothing...can this have a direct correlation of his personal journey in Fashion? Why were his women so guarded and protected once? This "exoskeleton" that was so present in his clothing at first has begun to relent beginning with his Spring 2009 collection. The extreme silhouette was still present, yet there was something new-those little vents cut into the clothing, as well as a sheer blouse, the flowing fabrics, are all of these elements of letting one's guard down, and finally letting us in? Whatever it is, Gareth Pugh's Spring 2009 collection presented a turning point for the Designer, as well as a moment of clarity for me personally.

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009 Collection

Photos:Style.com

The Extremist

2009-08-25T16:16:00.000-07:00

Gareth Pugh
Photo:dianepernet.typepad.com

"The imagination...

2009-08-17T09:56:00.000-07:00

can transform all sorts of personal insanity into elements of self invention, and you need to make use of this."-Karl Lagerfeld

Photo:?

Exit

2009-08-17T09:33:00.000-07:00

Photos:DesignScene.

Vogue Nippon

2009-08-15T20:40:00.000-07:00

February 2009

Photos:TFS

Comme Des Garcons

2009-08-14T22:13:00.000-07:00

Rei Kawakubo blurs the lines of construction. In Comme Des Garcons clothing often there is no clear silhouette. The distorted, destructive, chaotic clothing is never easily understood,but serves more of an outlet for the ideas and explorations that Rei Kawakubo has. She pushes the boundaries in terms of what is considered beautiful, showing that there is beauty in anti-beauty. There is asymmetry, dramatic cuts, folds, masculinity and a rejection of the conventional norm in the Fashion world. Here is a woman who does not work around the body, or highlight the sensuality in women, she warps and hides it-the layered tulle covering the clothing, the ballooning shapes that emerge from her clothing. All of these elements are so perplexing, but at once intriguing. Her clothing takes the audience through a certain journey, because she is purposely challenging us to look deeper, and change our perspective on what we find to be beautiful. "If I do something I think is new, it will be misunderstood, but if people like it, I will be disappointed because I haven't pushed them enough. The more people hate it, maybe the newer it is. Because the fundamental human problem is that people are afraid of change."

Amazing

Photos:Style.com

"Don't look left or right...

2009-08-13T14:31:00.000-07:00

follow your heart. No magazine, no editor, nothing can stop you." -Ralph Rucci

Inspiring.
Photos:Propagandica.wordpress.com

The Translation

2009-08-12T19:57:00.001-07:00

Beautiful clothes that allow the wearer to draw their own conclusions, dreams, inspiration.
Photos:Style.com

Without Title

2009-08-12T11:25:00.000-07:00

"...We liked the idea of creating a line where the clothing spoke for itself."

Working without those constricting definitions, a concept similar to that of Brancusi and his belief in learning to understand the language of the materials, Ohne Titel is a label that offers clothes, as they are.

Constriction

2009-08-11T21:09:00.000-07:00

Photos:DazedDigital.com

YSL

2009-08-10T12:17:00.000-07:00

Beautiful
Photo:Terry Richardson

"To express...

2009-07-30T21:34:00.000-07:00

in a simple banal object a great complexity about women."-Miuccia Prada

This eerily beautiful and sinister woman...who is she? Visceral and Austere? Or...

Prada Fall 2009 Lookbook
Photos:Style.com

I find beauty in...

2009-07-27T18:30:00.000-07:00

the perverse and unsettling. The dark and dreary...the confrontational. Not just the glamour.

Photo:Vogue Paris

The Design

2009-07-27T11:24:00.000-07:00

Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci Fall 2009
Photos:Style.com

The Man

2009-07-25T18:35:00.001-07:00

Olivier Theyskens.

A man who skillfully molds gothic, romantic and victorian silhouettes and moods into an aesthetic that is all his own. Rightfully he calls it "Theyskenian" and the results of his very own individual silhouette are calming, poetic, and breathtaking. He focuses on the waist and hips saying, "Everything I do is out of instinct. I love to show shapes. I like to work around the waist, the hips." This is seen in his work with dresses that are short in the front, (stopping mid thigh) yet flow to stop at floor length. It is also seen in the hourglass shapes many of his dresses have, or the way a fitted bodice gives way to sculpted, petal like folds that sit on the waist and descend down on the body. Ethereal, emotional, a true Designer.

Photo:ninaricci.com

The Philosophy

2009-07-25T17:49:00.000-07:00

"My work focuses on the interaction between my aesthetics and an attitude that is presented at the right moment."

Ymre. Beautiful

2009-07-24T13:23:00.000-07:00

Ymre Stiekema
Photos:?

'I don't have a muse.

2009-07-22T16:17:00.000-07:00

I have a mood.'-Jessica Ogden

I love the idea of drawing inspiration from something so abstract, or intangible and transforming it into a piece of art.
Photo:Bruce Hall